Prey Drive in Dogs

The training of any dog can include prey drive, which is in layman’s terms playing with a ball or tug. Something that moves like prey, something that wiggle and moves fast.

This prey harness can be used to teach a dog anything, for obedience dogs it is used as a reward for getting the correct position, it is the same for security dogs tugs or balls are used as a reward for the behaviour we want, such as barking. The only thing that security training is different to any other prey drive training in dogs is the that the dog learns to demand the tug or ball, we harness this to make them desperately want it. This desperation leads to frustration creating a keen dog that will bark at anyone as they think they are withholding the bar or ball from them.

Prey drive taps into the dogs natural instincts to chase and bite anything that moves as it could be a potential food source, in domestic dogs this has turned into biting and chasing anything due to selective breeding of working dogs. This type of chase behaviour is not seen as much is breeds which are pets such as Maltese. But it is very prevalent in the Border Collie and German Shepherd, both dogs originally selected for working with stock and guarding. Most breed have been bred with a inhibited kill section of the normal prey drive, which is Sight-Chase-Catch-Kill, the only breeds that still maintain this kill section are hunting breeds such as Terriers, which are used as vermin control.

Tasha gets her tug and a game when she barks on command. The positive play reinforces the desired behaviour so she is more likely to do it again. This reinforcement will set her up for life, she will soon learn to bark on command as a reward may come in the form of the tug, tapping into her prey drive.

This type of training works well for security dogs as they bond with their handler, as well as avoiding food treating which can cause accidents as well as lead to the dog taking food from strangers, this could be potentially fatal for the dog. Prey drive could also be used for any pet dog, as well as accompanied by treat reward and verbal praise in the home.

It might seem that this type of training is only for larger breeds or security training for patrol dogs, but it the same training for any dog. This includes the training of drugs dogs, who primarily use tennis balls for a reward and to start their initial training. Spaniels especially have a high prey drive which is why they are used as gun dogs, their prey drive doesn’t go as far as killing as that has been bred out of them, it instead creates an instinct to chase and grab anything that moves, then bring it back to its owner. This is tapped in for drugs dogs as they want to chase the ball, and that behaviour in itself becomes the reward.

Remember to play with your dog, prey drive is usually untouched by pet dog trainers as with the right timing can be used to very quickly reinforce any behaviour. The dog isn’t working for a bribe it is wanting to work to get its reward, a reward that is suited to its personality be it a ball or a bite bar, or anything the dog will play with.

(Tip – Don’t use a tennis ball for larger breeds as they can cause accidents, instead use a rubber ball on a rope, it is good for pulling and the dog is less likely to accidentally swallow it or chew it up)

The Police Dog: A Study Of The German Shepherd Dog (or Alsatian) : Review

I read this book over a series of days, after seeing the title online. I found it an out of date yet informative book, it was published in 1924 when various methods and brands were used readily, these are mentioned in the book often and are now not used, or not considered when training. At the end of the day the old information is usually the stock information for all dog handler, breeders and trainers, they have just been tweeked for present use, it does not make them new ideas just tried and improved.

The books starts as many dog books do, with the origin of the dog, relating back to the evolution from the wolf.

Brilliant layout of the breed, including pointers that are still ignored by the Kennel Club, including stance and leg distance. It mentions line breeding which is still practised today but not in the severity that it was. A good quote is “Faults which prevent them from fulfilling their duties”, often the case that many GSD’s cannot fulfil any duties they were originally bred for. There is a trend for large dogs, which is effecting the breed greatly as their joints cannot support their weight.

The book covers more than just the breed, it has details on first aid, care from conception to old age, covering every stage of the dog. Their is a large section on training, but personally I would have liked to see an even larger section to fill the book with that rather than information on care. The title sells the book as being more on the GSD, it is more like a general overview book in its contents.

Overall a rather good read but not in-depth enough for my taste, not much has jumped out to me to remember specifically any parts for later.

The Yellow Dog Project

The Yellow Dog project aims to give dogs space. It is aimed at dogs that will react when other dogs come up to them, it could be for various reasons such as aggression, being injured or worried by other dogs.

It is so called as it promotes owners to put a yellow ribbon on the dog to warn other dog owners, it warndsthat their dog will not be happy with another dog coming over.

It has become a global movement. It’s main aim is to educate people that dogs sometimes need space when out on a walk. It is not just for dogs, it also seeks to teach that you cannot just go up to a dog and stroke it. The yellow ribbon will hope to signal to people to talk to the owner first about going to the dog or letting your own dog near it. It is not just for aggressive dogs as many might assume, it is also for temporary ailments such as after castration when the dog will be sore. The ribbon will hopefully keep other dogs from hurting the dog while it still heals.

I advise dog owners to use the ribbon if the dog is in training or heat to reduce the distractions of other dogs. I also have several dogs that wear them when walking as they are worried by other dogs.

The ribbon will hopefully spread the word of the project but it is also well seen for a distance giving people plenty of time to get their dogs under control.

You don’t have to just use a ribbon, some people use yellow bandannas or yellow harnesses.

 

Here is one of my clients wearing her yellow ribbon:

 

Top TIp: I find that the ribbons fall off, so I found that using yellow electrical tape is better as it sticks to the lead or harness really well!

 

I always carry a spare ribbon in my dog walking gear attached to a spare slip lead. It means that if I find a stray dog people know to avoid it while I try and deal with the situation. Reducing the likelihood of the situation getting worse with a strange dog.

 

Poster: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.pawesome.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/yellow-dog-project.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.pawesome.net/2012/09/the-yellow-dog-project-for-dinos/&h=720&w=480&sz=116&tbnid=AIRiVHTmxl3RaM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=60&zoom=1&usg=__zCk5Ub2eci4b-jJCg0any6O0TN8=&docid=eZL_nYJcjv2LrM&sa=X&ei=MI00UtukBMq57Abq-4DICg&sqi=2&ved=0CEwQ9QEwAw&dur=444

Website: http://www.theyellowdogproject.com/The_Yellow_Dog_Project/Home.html

Reward Based Training But NO Treats!

Everyone uses treats these days to get the dog to do what they want, they forget about the other things they can do that will actually increase the bond between the dog and owner, doing these different things may also reduce grabbing food, snapping, guarding and generally disrespectful behaviour.

1. PLAY!

People forget to play with their dogs after so many scaremongering stories about aggressive behaviour developing in the dog if you play tug or getting hurt. As long as you can get the toy back from the dog then it is a safe game.
Balls can also be used, roll it away for a game of fetch or chase with it.

2. Life Rewards.

Using a high-priority behaviour to reinforce a low-priority behaviour. So an example would be using the chance to go in the garden and run about reinforces the sit, as they dog knows once it does the sit (low priority) it can go play (high priority). You have to know your dog for this really, know what they want that you can provide.

3.Verbal Praise.

Use that baby voice, add in “Good dog” or “Well done”. Use high a high pitched excited voice to convey good things to the dog.

4. Touching.

Give the dog a cuddle or scratch in his favorite place. BUT you must know your dog for this and do go up to strange dogs and cuddle them for sitting, you will get hurt that way. A tickle under the chin is just as good as a cuddle for any dog and best for those that aren’t to fond of being touched.

5. Space.

For some dogs creating space is an excellent reward, for touch social situations especially. Space is an under used reward that can be used to help. A dog can be rewarded with space when they look away or ignore a specific reactive stimulus, the reward is to move further away from the stimuli they do not like.

Think about all of these next time your dog is not listening and ignoring the treats. Use other rewards you know your dog will enjoy, not all of these will work for every dog but they can work for your dog if you choose the correct ones to use.

Cuddles are just as good as any treat for many dogs, and create a better bond

When working with working dogs such as sheep dogs or working patrol dogs you cannot use treats, the dog can be miles away moving sheep or the dog is s focused on barking that you will loose your fingers to give them a treat. There are so many other options that every owner should consider using as well as using treats. Dogs will like the variety as much as you will!

Article: http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/14_7/features/Reward-Based-Training-Without-Treats_20304-1.html